In the hinterland of Bagheria, not far from Palermo and Cefalà Diana, the San Nicola waterfalls (25 km from Palermo, 14 km from Bagheria), the village of Marineo (22 km from Bagheria, 30 km from Palermo), or the Ficuzza Nature Reserve, passing through the ruins of the Emir’s Castle in Misilmeri (10 km from Bagheria, 16 km from Palermo).

Marineo

About ten kilometres north-west of Cefalà Diana, the small town of Marineo was founded in the 16th century, but its origins may be ancient. The territory indeed shows traces of continuous occupation since Hellenistic times, confirmed by rural and funerary remains.

Beccadelli Castle in Marineo, Sicily

Beccadelli Castle

Excavations at the nearby site of La Montagnola have shown an occupation since the Iron Age, from the Archaic period, progressively Hellenised, occupied until Roman and medieval times, with dwellings, tombs and inscribed tiles, testifying to a continuous occupation and exchanges with the Greek world. Greek inscriptions have made it possible to identify the site with the ancient city of Makella, mentioned in classical sources, although this identification is still debated.
Roman tombs have also been discovered in the town, in a necropolis linked to a Roman rural settlement. 

Heritage and visit

Its most notable building is Beccadelli Castle, built in 1553, which rests on earlier structures and preserves defensive elements inherited from the Middle Ages.
It houses the Regional Archaeological Museum of the Valle dell’Eleuterio which displays finds from the nearby sites of La Montagnola and the Eleuterio valley. It brings together a rich collection of Punic, Hellenistic, Roman, Arab, Norman and Swabian material.
On a hill north of the town centre, the sanctuary of the Madonna della Dayna was built in the 15th century and from its position embraces a panorama to the north over the valley. It preserves Catalan Gothic elements characteristic of late-medieval Sicily.

Naca di Sirena Waterfalls, Sicily

Naca di Sirena Waterfall

Marineo is also known for its living cultural traditions, including the “Dimostranza di San Ciro”, a ritual and musical re-enactment that attracts visitors and locals, celebrating local history through theatre, music and traditional agri-food products (bread, olives and wine).

Nearby, the Ficuzza Nature Reserve is made up of woods and Mediterranean vegetation, which can be discovered by walking the trails, also including the former Real Casina di Caccia di Ficuzza, the hunting residence of the Bourbons.

A few kilometres north-west of Marineo you can descend towards the valley and visit the Sirena Waterfall, to the right of the road, or follow on the other side a steep path along the Gole dello Stretto gorges, towards the south-west.

San Nicola Waterfalls and the brigands’ cave

The pretty little San Nicola Waterfalls are located in the municipality of Bolognetta (about 14 km from Bagheria and only 25 km from Palermo), between the latter and the municipality of Misilmeri (known for its persimmons and the very dilapidated ruins of the Emir’s castle), accessible on a short excursion in the midst of nature but a little arduous in places, with natural bathing areas in summer.

Two main routes allow you to get closer to the site by car. One coming from the north, along a path from the SP 16, near the junction with the SP 61. The other 5 km from Bolognetta on the SP 134, where a sign indicates on the right a driveable path for part of the way.
You have to walk about 15–20 minutes. Near the waterfalls, you can see a cave called the “brigands’ cave” (grotta dei briganti). It is associated with popular tales of 19th-century brigandage, common in Sicilian rural areas.

Emir’s Castle of Misilmeri

Emir's Castle, Misilmeri, Sicily

Emir’s Castle

In the Eleuterio Valley, Misilmeri is a town whose name derives from the Arabic Manzil al-Amir (“dwelling of the emir”). It developed around the Emir’s Castle (Castello dell’Emiro) probably founded at the beginning of the 11th century by the emir Giafar II, today in ruins, which offered a strategic point for controlling and monitoring the territory. It was modified and enlarged over the centuries, notably under the Norman lords.

Battle of Misilmeri

An important battle took place near Misilmeri in 1068 as part of the Norman conquest of Sicily. It pitted a small Norman raiding force commanded by Roger I of Sicily against a much larger Muslim army, composed of Kalbid Sicilians and Zirid forces from North Africa.
The fighting was brief and decisive with a rapid charge by the seasoned Norman knights that unsettled the poorly trained Muslims, leading to the almost total rout of the enemy army. 
A famous episode is linked to the carrier pigeons brought by the Muslim army. After their capture, Roger had blood-stained messages attached to these birds, which, on returning to Palermo, informed the inhabitants of the defeat of their troops. Following the battle the Zirids withdrew to North Africa. Palermo was taken in 1072.

Other heritage of Misilmeri

Besides the Emir’s Castle, Misilmeri has the Chiesa Madre di San Giovanni Battista, the main church, dating from the 16th century, which preserves significant works of art and reflects local religious history.

Where Marineo and nearby sites are located: map

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